February vacation, part two: Madrid
After leaving my mom in Barcelona, I arrived in Madrid and found my hostel pretty easily. I was not exactly thrilled with it. It was an apartment in an office building, and reeked of cigarettes. After realizing that there was free Internet on the one computer in the kitchen, I sat down to wait my turn and was forced to chat with the other guy waiting. He had not one but two neck tattoos, greasy lank blond hair, and told me he owns "a little business" in London. Within three minutes of talking, not even knowing this guy's name yet (it turned out to be Lee), he had mentioned vaginae to me at least two times. Awesome.
I walked around the city a bit, to get a feel for the layout, and had a reasonable but good dinner at La Finca de Susana: gazpacho and duck with mustard sauce. I doodled my way home through Plaza Mayor and the Palacio Real, and dodged Lee on my way to my room.
Saturday I slept in in anticipation of a big night out, and went to the Museo Del Prado for over three hours. It is an absolutely amazing museum. I wasn't able to properly digest the Tintoretto exhibit after so much, so went for a quick walk through the nearby botanical gardens and stopped at Los Gatos for excellent tapas before walking back to the hostel.
I had posted a note on the assistants' forum before leaving Paris saying that I would be in Madrid if anyone wanted to meet up, and heard back from Anna and Sarah. They're placed in the north of France, but happened to be in Madrid the same time as I was. We got together to explore the city a bit, and went on a culinary tour: spicy shrimp at Casa de L'Abuela, potatoes at Las Bravas, wine at Cafe Pricipe, and then churros and hot chocolate at Chocolateria de San Gines:
Both Anna and Sarah are really fun, smart girls, and we had a good time sharing horror stories. Sarah is actually arriving in Paris tomorrow to crash at my place for three days before she flies home!
Sunday I headed to El Rastro fleamarket, where I was very disappointed. There was nothing particularly good, although I did find a few nice handpainted pottery pieces for gifts. I went to the Thyssen museum, and got there right before the skies opened up. I liked but didn't love the museum. The layout was great, but it just couldn't compare to the Prado for me.
I decided to stop back at Los Gatos since I was starving, and the guy who works there remembered me from the day before! He smiled and got my order ready without my having to say anything, and gave me a free taste of Serrano ham. I then hung out in Parque del Buen Retiro for a long time. It was gorgeous out, after the rains had cleared. Here's the entrance to the park:
When I was younger I used to call broccoli little trees, and imagine the small people who would live in a world where broccoli were trees, probably aided in my imagination by this guy. Walking in the park I saw my first real, live broccoli tree! Does anyone know what kind of tree this is?
The park is really lovely, and I only got to see about half of it. It's the kind of place I would hang out in all the time if I loved in Madrid. Look at these other cool trees: And over by the big man-made lake I listened to drum circles as the sun set: Back at the hostel I chatted with my roommate, Philip from London. I was planning to go to a jazz club I'd read about, and Philip decided to come along. We stopped back at Abuela's for more delicious shrimp tapas and then got to Cafe Central for an AMAZING jazz show. I don't normally listen to jazz at home, although I'm actually listening to Miles Davis as I write this, but I love live jazz. This group was great, and Philip and I both really enjoyed it.
Monday was beautiful, even if I had to sneak past the creep Fernando who works at the hostel. I explored Palacio Real which was very nice but no Versailles. I trekked out to the boonies for chicken and cider at Casa Mingo. It was damn good chicken.
I then read and took a postprandial nap in Campo Moro, behind the palace. It reminded me of a massive version of the Shakespeare Gardens, once of my favorite spots in Central Park. I took a wrong turn trying to exit, and realized that I would have to sneak past a security officer to avoid trekking back a mile to the official exit. I took a deep breath and prepared myself for battle. I thought I was in the clear as soon as my foot hit sidewalk, but heard a loud and angry "Senorita!" so I stopped. The guard tried to tell me that it was impossible to exit through the security gate and that I would have to go back through the park to exit. I said, confused, "It's impossible?" and after he agreed, I said, "But I just did it" and walked away. It was such a rush.
I practically ran through the Reina Sofia Museum, which I did not at all like. Boring. Bland. Boo. I walked back to the center of town window shopping and eating ice cream (in February!), before dinner at a place my parents had recommended, which was completely overpriced if nice. I had, and was bizarrely charged for, a plate of olives, peppers, and marinated onions and anchovies, followed by a mediocre main course and pretty bad dessert. Realizing that I was being completely ripped-off, I silently canceled my plans to take in a flamenco show since I now couldn't afford it and finished my book over my wine.
Tuesday, my last day in Spain, I took a day trip to Toledo. I really love these small cities, and the romantic comedy feeling you get just by walking around them. I saw the cathedral, which was glorious: and stopped at a small square for some pepper/tomato/onion mush, absolutely amazed at the weather in the 70s. February! In a t-shirt! I went to a lovely monastery, which had great details and perfect lighting: I bought myself a handpainted pitcher and then spoiled my lovely day by missing my bus back to Madrid due to bad directions and had to waste an hour at the Toledo bus station. I missed the closing time of all the stores in Chueca that I wanted to see, and the restaurant I was looking for had been replaced by a Starbucks, so I ate at a crowded place with obnoxious waiters and wondered why so many Spanish people have facial piercings and ugly tights. I saw more lip rings and argyle tights that week . . .
All in all, I liked Spain but didn't love it. There are plenty of other places in the country I really want to see, like Seville and Bilbao and Valencia, but I'm not going to rush back. Besides, I had a trip to Amsterdam two days after getting back to Paris to look forward to!